Resident/Sherry/Thomas/reminisces/about/rerouted/ecdw/trip/to/North/Korea

by Sherry Thomas

LW Contributor

In 2016 I joined a seven month overland tour with Madventure. It was billed as London to Australia, so there would be some flying and ships involved.

In Tehran we got word that a key pass from Nepal into India was closed because of an avalanche. To still go to as many countries as possible, the tour was going to go on an infamous highway in China to get into Tibet. The tour company thought we might be camping at 18,000 feet for at least a week.

We were all standing around trying to figure out what we should do. You always try to put the best foot forward on these kinds of trips, and, of course don’t mention anything that might slow you down or cause problems for the group.

I was talking to an Australian woman I had just met and she said, “Yikes, I just found out I have a hole in my heart and don’t want to be at that elevation for that long.” I said, “Yikes, I have one lung and shouldn’t.”

We decided to get off the truck for a month and rejoin later in China. Where to go? Someone mentioned North Korea as being mind-boggling, but I thought I couldn’t go. But it turned out in 2016, I could.

Then, how to plan the trip and what company to use. We were usually camping or staying in dodgy hostels with not great internet. We got in touch with two companies that had trips that would work time-wise. In Azerbaijan we put on our most fancy clothes and went to hang out in the Sheraton lobby. If you were buying beverages you could use their internet. We went through gallons of tea and coffee. Democratic People’s Republic of Korea here we come.

We left the truck in Kazakhstan and flew to Beijing. We had a lengthy meeting in Beijing about what to do. Also, and more important, what not to do. Do not do anything concerning their leaders that is disrespectful. Folding a newspaper and putting your feet on a leader or former leader’s face is forbidden. You are going to be searched completely at the border, including any photos on your phone or computer. All books will be searched to be sure they don’t have any religious material or western propaganda. You are locked in your hotel at night “for your own safety.” The hotels have bars, restaurant, a swimming pool, a bowling alley and their favorite, karaoke. You can take pictures, except of military on the street. The problem with this is that the military are everywhere.

There were 10 of us in the group, and we were three Americans. We had two tour guides from the company and three Korean handlers to guide us. We knew of course that everything we said was being recorded and were sure to be cautious and respectful.

As an American I had to fly from Beijing to Pyongyang. Going through customs and immigration was one of the most stressful moments for me. I am pretty good at border crossings knowing that you have to behave and follow the rules no matter how strange they might seem to a westerner. I always remember I made a choice to visit and must follow the rules. I was so rattled by a couple of questions that I left my passport in the control area and walked out to meet the group sans passport. Our lovely guide quickly retrieved it for me.

We went to the demilitarized zone (DMZ) from the north side, the museum with the Pueblo they seized, the room where the cease fire was signed. We also went to a mausoleum to pay our respects to Kim II Sung, and Kim Jong II. They are embalmed. You have to be respectfully dressed and then you are transported on a flat moving walkway. At some point you go through a wind tunnel, don’t know why. Then when your turn comes you go around their caskets bowing three times.

I am glad I made this trip. Do I feel like most of the people I met had drank the Kool Aid or were just that controlled? I honestly don’t know.

Mansudae Hill Grand Monument featuring President Kim Il Sung and General Kim Jong Il.